5 Must-Have Items

The longer my hair stays natural and the more I learn about healthy hair, the fewer products I use. At one point, I had so many hair products that some friends came over just to know what product I had just bought! Not so anymore thank God (and I know my bank account is dancing too)! There are some items I realized that I have always had with me for my hair.

So the 5 items I THINK every natural haired person should have are:

1) A wide tooth comb or a brush or something you can use to detangle your hair (that could be your fingers too). I have a wide tooth comb and a Denman brush. I use my fingers to detangle when I take out any hairstyle before I wash my hair. I use my comb or brush after washing my hair.

2) A satin or silk scarf or pillowcase to wrap your hair when you sleep to retain some moisture in your hair. I prefer a scarf if I cannot have both because it keeps my hairstyle in longer and reduces the occurrence of frizz.

3) A spray bottle (or 2 or 3) for water and any other moisture or oil based product you need for your hair. I have a few spray bottles. One for water. Another for some oil. And the third for a mix of water, glycerin and peppermint oil. I have big, medium and small spray bottles.

4) A shower cap (or old nylon or plastic bag) to cover your hair for deep conditioning. We know that deep conditioning helps moiturize our hair. Trapping heat is essential when deep conditioning and a shower cap assists with this.

5) A butter or oil product (or both) for sealing and conditioning your hair. I use shea butter or cocoa butter or both mixed together.

So what items do you think every Napp should have in her arsenal of hair care products? What are yours?

Keep it natural!

Omozo

I straightened my hair

Yesterday I went to the hair salon and straightened my hair. Oh boy!

I washed my hair, put leave-in conditioner and my O'Naturals Cocoa-shea hair butter. Then I stretched my hair with thread. I felt that I should "help" the straightening process by stretching out my hair a bit. Then I went to the salon and said *drum roll* "I want to straighten my hair". The stylist opened her eyes widely and I grinned sheepishly. This stylist has styled my hair before so we have history. I sat down in the chair and still kept asking myself whether I should not just twist my hair and call it a night. I forged ahead.

I took my own serum because I guessed (and rightly so) that there would be none at the salon. I instructed the stylist on how to use the serum and, to her credit, she took the instructions well and used the serum well. When I saw the smoke coming out of the flat iron I almost jumped out of the chair! Meeeeen! Then she started to straighten my hair. Every time she ran the flat iron over my hair there was this evil hisssssss that could be heard. I could hear my hair strands crying "Whyyyyy? Why do you torture us so? Whyyyyyyyy?" After straightening about 3 sections at the back of my head,  I asked her to stop. I took a deep breath and we continued. When we were done my hair looked straight. Well, not too straight because I told her to chill on the straightening. It also looks very full.

I must be honest, it was traumatic for me. *Yes I am a bit of a drama queen* That amount of direct and high heat on any texture of hair cannot be good. Yes I could see some of my real hair length and my hair was bouncy but at what cost? I got home and put more hair butter on my ends.

One thing that is very important when applying any form of heat to your, is the use of serum. Use a serum. Use a serum. The serum will protect your hair from heat damage. Regularly applying high heat directly to your hair is not a healthy hair practice because the hair is exposed to heat damage. If you must, try to space it out a bit and give your hair a bit of a break between each straightening session.

So will I do it again anytime soon? Nah. This kind of trauma takes time to heal.

Keep it natural!

Omozo

Stretching hair - Bantu Knot Technique

We spoke about the fact that natural hair shrinks (see post here) and mentioned some methods of stretching natural hair so that more of the true length can be seen (see stretching post here). We have talked about using thread to stretch your hair (see post here). Today we will talk about using Bantu knots as a stretching method.

Bantu knots are called various things. I have heard them called china bumps, periwinkle and robo-robo. What else have you heard them being called? Bantu knots can be used as a hairstyle too but today, it is about using them to stretch your natural hair. I think you get the best results when you put in the bantu knots when hair is damp or wet. Of course you can then style as you want after you take out the bantu knots.

The video below shows you how to do bantu knots on your hair. Start at 1:57 minutes to see her doing bantu knots.

Here are pictures of my hair with bantu knots and after I took them out.





Bantu knots in






Bantu knots out. I picked out the hair some more and rocked it for the day



So try this out and let us know how effective bantu knots worked for you for stretching your hair.

Keep it natural,

Omozo

Over sabi nearly ruined my hair!

A few days ago, I had been in the sun for a long time without covering my hair. By evening, I could tell my hair was really dry and needed a moisture boost. Instead of simply wetting my hair and applying some rinse out or leave-in conditioner I decided to do over sabi. I put some coconut oil on my hair and covered it with a shower cap and went to bed. The plan was to rinse it out the next morning then seal with some hair butter. Instead I left the coconut oil in my hair all day the next day because I figured that since it is coconut oil and it softens hair there is no harm leaving it in my hair with my hair covered with a shower cap the whole day - 24 full hours.

WRONG! WRONG! WRONG!

When I was ready to rinse my hair in the evening, my hair was hard! I mean hard like thin cardboard. No joke o! *insert horror movie multiple stabbing scream here* My heart was pounding and I kept thinking "I am in trouble!"

If you think that was bad just add another thing to the equation. During the day my head was itching more than normal. I have some peppermint essential oil in the house. I reasoned that I would put some in the rinsing water and rinse my hair. Omozo now decided to POUR (don't know why my wrist was so loose sef) about half a cup of it into the bucket of water because in Omozo's mind it was a big bucket. Then I rinsed out  the coconut oil using the water with excess peppermint EO. My hair felt even harder and much dryer.

Solution? Do what should have been done in the beginning. I:
1) Twisted my hair while sectioning carefully. I noticed my hair was really matted while sectioning so I had to detangle with a comb. I did not expect the matting to happen. *More horror movie screams and music*
2) Washed my twisted hair once with a little shampoo to get out as much of the coconut oil and peppermint EO as possible.
3) Applied rinse out conditioner. Waited five minutes before rinsing it out.
4) Applied a creme based leave-in conditioner especially to the tips of my hair.
5) Sealed with some of the hair butter I made that day.
6) Trimmed the ends: my hair was due for a trim anyway! (And I did a length check too :D)

The result? Better feeling and looking hair! *dropped to my knees thanking God* The shine was back and my hair truly felt softer. Phew!

Bowing my head in gratitude while humming "The storm is over ..."

 
Moral of the story: I need to practise what I preach and "KEEP IT SIMPLE SIS!" If you do something or use a product that your hair does not accept, just wash it out and condition as usual. Don't go and do over sabi* because it will most likely not end well. Feel free to share your own "over sabi" stories.

Keep it natural (and simple)!

Omozo

*"Over Sabi" is a Nigerian slang used to describe over doing something because you feel you know too much. I think it can be used as a noun or adjective or adverb.

Stretching and Straightening Natural Hair

In the last post we talked about shrinkage. Read more here. It is important to note that shrinkage is not a bad thing: it is just the nature and characteristic of natural black hair –that’s all. Sure it can be a bit annoying that the whole world cannot see that your hair reaches your buttocks but it gives you something to say when playing those “tell us one thing no one knows about you” games.  So what can be done to manage shrinkage? I use the word “manage” because shrinkage cannot be eliminated. Yeah, that product you just bought to end shrinkage forever is fake!

In Napp world, many people use the term “stretch” to indicate the drawing out or lengthening or extending of the hair without removing the kinks and coils completely. So one’s hair is stretched out but you can still tell the hair is natural because you’ll see some little kinks or coils especially at the front and neckline of the head. The techniques used are also different from when one straightens the hair. Stretching is almost always temporary which means you can go back to your full coils after washing your hair. After stretching you usually have some elasticity still left in the hair. You have to be careful and ensure that you do not over manipulate your hair in the bid to stretch your hair. Do everything in moderation and with gentleness and care.

Natural hair stretched using braids. Braids taken out and hair combed out with a wide tooth comb.

Straightening natural hair is usually used to indicate the complete removal of the kinks and coils. The intention is for the hair to be straight (as in the word) usually like Caucasian hair. This can be permanent like when relaxers are used or temporary like when high levels of heat (blow drying, curling iron, flat iron) is used.  After straightening, there is usually no elasticity left in the hair. 

O’Naturals does not advocate using relaxers because it permanently alters the texture of our natural hair and it can be harmful to your health.  O’Naturals also discourages the use of frequent direct heat to the natural hair. It is not using direct heat but using it all the time, especially at high levels, that can cause problems. Frequent application of direct heat to natural hair can also be very damaging because the heat removes moisture from the hair which can lead to breakage. 

Hair straightened using a relaxer

Natural hair straightened using blow dryer and flat iron

 

There are various methods of stretching natural hair. The fun thing is that these methods can be used as hair styles and protective styling. These methods become stretching techniques when they are used before the actual intended hairstyle is done.  For example, I put my hair in big braids over night to stretch it out for the Cinnabun Bun hairstyle I did.

 

The following techniques can be used to stretch your hair: Braids, Bantu knots, 2 or 3 strand twists, Flat twists, Corn-rows, Banding, Threading, Flexi rods, Big rollers, Pin curls. You can also use a blow dryer to stretch your hair so long as you do not straighten it! Figure that one out! We will have posts up on the techniques mentioned above as stretching tools. Stay tuned!

Keep it natural!

Omozo

Simple Home-made Detangling Spray

It is good hair practice to de-tangle your hair before washing or styling. De-tangling should be done first with your fingers because you are able to feel the knots in your hair and can work carefully to undo them. After using your fingers, you may use a wide-tooth comb to comb through your hair. Also, de-tangling your hair, with your fingers, after you take out a hairstyle (like twists, braids, Bantu knots etc.) helps you find twists that you may have missed. I use my de-tangling time to also massage my scalp to stimulate blood flow.

To assist in de-tangling, your hair should not be dry. A simple home-made de-tangling spray can give you some moisture and help you through the de-tangling process. This spray is easy and very inexpensive to make. You will need Glycerin for this spray. “Glycerin is a humectant that is one of the most effective humectants found in black hair products. A humectant draws moisture from the surrounding air and brings it to the hair or skin. When on the scalp, it also draws moisture from the deeper skin layers up to the uppermost scalp skin layer.”  (The Science of Black Hair By Audrey Davis-Sivasothy). Glycerin is odourless and colourless. It can be purchased at your local health food store or Pharmacy. Do not use too much glycerin in your spray because it can leave your hair sticky and this means extra washing to get it off your hair.

Ingredients:

100ml bottle

Water

Glycerin

 

Recipe:

Fill 80% of your 100ml bottle with water;

Fill the rest of the bottle with glycerin (should be 20%);

Shake properly to let the water and glycerin mix;

Spray on your hair as required so that you soften your hair for the de-tangling process.

This spray can also be used to give your hair a moisture boost during the week. Add some drops of Peppermint Essential oil to the spray and it will stimulate blood flow and relieve an itchy scalp.

 Keep it natural!

Omozo

Travel Size Hair Care Tips

We just came back from a trip to Benin City (in Edo state, Nigeria) where we celebrated our Grand-mommy’s 90^th birthday. It was awesome! Grand-mommy is also natural: we’ll show pictures later. 

While traveling you want to still take care of your hair. I mean, no need to take a hair care break because you are on vacation! And with most airlines and bus companies having baggage restrictions, we do not have the liberty of carrying those large bottles of shampoo and conditioner anymore. We all want a smooth journey to our destinations and so anything that removes the travel drama is welcome in my opinion! 

Here are 5 tips to help you pack a hair care kit fit for any trip.

1) How long is your trip? Decide this and pack accordingly. Add a day or two in case something prevents you from heading home as planned.

2) Acquire 100ml sized bottles and jars. 100ml is the standard size Airlines allow in your carry-on luggage. In Nigeria, buses are usually stingy with space: charging you for almost every piece of luggage you carry. Investing in these small sized bottles and jars is worth it. You can either purchase or re-use old bottles or jars. Make sure you clean your containers properly whether re-using or purchasing brand new.

 

 

L-R: Shampoo in the bottle and Conditioner in the jar

3)   How are you going to do to your hair on your trip? Are you going to wash and condition your hair or will you be maintaining your hairstyle or are you going to do rinses during your trip? Decide all this so that you do not carry a whole suitcase full of hair products! I prefer rinses during my trips because it is less hassle and my hair still gets some refreshment. Oh! If you plan to rinse out or wash your hair do not forget to pack your cotton hair wrap or towel.

 4)  Put hair products (shampoo, conditioner, oils, Shea butter mixes, hair spritz and sprays etc.) into the small travel size bottles and jars mentioned in #2 above. It is important to secure your products in the bottles or jars properly. Oils tend to leak through bottles so consider wrapping your oil bottle(s) in a transparent bag and then storing them perhaps in a transparent plastic container. You can never be too careful. If you have ever experienced seeing sweet scenting lavender oil on the red dress you were going to wear for that award ceremony, securing those oils would not be a chore but a necessity! I am just saying  :-I    

L-R: Home-made daily Peppermint spritz in the bottle and Shea butter mix in jar

 5) I recommend you put your travel hair products in transparent bags like the zip lock bags. This saves you the drama of explaining to Customs officials at the airport and then removing them from your cute hair bag to end up putting them in the transparent bags anyway.

Zip lock bags I use for my trips

What are your travel tips? Share them with us.

Keep it natural (and enjoy your trip)!

Omozo

Thread as a hair styling tool

It has been 12 days since our last post? Really? How did that happen? And in my mind I had created so many blog posts o. We are sorry for the silence.

My sis and I have been experimenting with the threading technique. It seems to be making a comeback. Well, I think it seems to be getting recognition outside the areas it is commonly found in. So the Americans and British are discovering it and are talking about it. However, it never left Nigeria. We have been, and still are, using the thread technique in this country. Also, the majority of the Bloggers and V-loggers use thread to stretch their hair. Here in Nigeria, we actually use the thread to style our hair. So we can keep in a thread hairstyle for a few weeks.

Using thread to make (or "plait" as we in Nigeria say it) is quite common in Nigeria. You have basic styles and you have some psychedelic styles too. I am hesitant to say that you find more children using thread than adults in Nigeria. I hesitate because I did a rough count last week and noticed just as many adults wearing hairstyles with thread. The thread technique is simple. Basically, you take some thread and wrap it around your hair. You can wrap up the whole section completely with thread or you can leave some gaps in the sections so it looks like twists.

Cornrows in front and Chinese thread used to wrap the back

Types of thread
In Nigeria, threading hair can be done with Chinese thread, or rubber thread or wool.

Chinese thread needs a bit more skill to use. This is especially true when, after the hair is thread, you want to style it by twisting and bending the hair. If care is not taken, the already thread hair can come loose and this means you have extra work of re-doing the hair.

Chinese thread

The rubber thread looks shiny after it is done. The rubber thread is less expensive to buy. 

Rubber used to thread hair also known as Polyvinyl tube (alibaba.com)

Wool seems to be the new kid on the block. Using wool to thread hair is getting more popular than using Chinese or rubber thread. A ball of wool costs about N100 (One Hundred Naira), which is less that $1, and can be used several times. Of course the amount of use you will get from your ball of wool depends on the length of your hair and the size of your sections. In fact, wool is being used for a lot more than threading hair. It is also used as extensions to twist and braid hair. It is also easier to manipulate wool after threading your hair with it.

Wool (knitpicks.com)

Some Tips
I hear that using the wool to thread hair can be painful. If the Stylist has "a painful hand" then you might be in for double pain!
*When getting your hair styled with thread remember to keep it properly moisturized before styling or else you can loose a lot of hair when you undo the thread.
*Also pay attention and encourage the stylist not to thread too tightly especially the front and nape areas. It might help to hold the base of the section of hair when it is being thread so that you are able to reduce the tension a bit during the hair making process.
*Make sure you use leave-in conditioners on your hair when it is in thread so that your hair does not get too dry.

Wool used to thread the hair at the back and small braids in front

*If you are a Newbie to using thread on your hair as a styling option, you may want to try it out on a weekend or when you won't be seeing too many people or going to work that day or the next. Just in case it does not work out! (You know what I mean right?)
*If you are using a Stylist to thread your hair for the first time, consider taking a painkiller before or after your hair is styled. This is because you will be going through a new hair making experience and your hair will be tugged and pulled in new ways so you may feel a new type of discomfort.

And of course, be creative and make this technique work for you. It is a nice way to add some variety to your styling  arsenal.

Keep it natural!

Omozo

Some Styles For Your Twists

We posted some tips on twists and how to preserve twists here. Today we have some pictures that show some styling options for twists. Plus check out the Black Women Natural Hairstyles Blog. There is a wealth of beautiful pictures of cool hairstyles on there. Book mark it! There are also videos on YouTube on how to style your twists. Use accessories once in a while and see how it spices up your hairstyle. Put your twists in an up-do or bun or twist your twists into bigger twists! I always say: be creative! Enjoy.

Twists are rolled and tucked into elastic head band

Twists are wrapped into large Bantu knots and sewn together

Long twists held at the back with accessory. Gives illusion of a short Bob cut

French braid done at the back and in the  front

Wear your twists down

Top picture: Small sized twists worn down. Bottom picture: Then twists braided at the back as an alternative style

Big twists put into big Bantu knots then pinned together. This style was accessorized and worn by the Chief Bridesmaid at a wedding

Left Picture: Twists put into big braids and then let out to give a wavy look. Not a twist out. Right Picture: Roller set twists

Accessorize and put your twists in any sized bun.

Keep it natural!

Omozo